Okra Production

Land preparation

Planting of okra requires early land preparation as an important step for producing a good crop. Pulverizing the soil in the fall or early spring will give crop residues time to decay before okra is planted. Early land preparation also allows for many weed seed to germinate. These seedlings should be killed as you disk the soil before planting. http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C627. Okra is an easy crop to cultivate and use and looks great throughout its growing season due to its beautiful flowers. It’s rich in vitamin A and low in calories, which makes it a great addition to your diet. https://www.almanac.com/plant/okra. Okra can be a profitable crop when recommended production practices are followed. It can return an income over a 10- to 12- week period after harvest starts. http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C627

Soil Requirement

Okra requires a well-drained, fertile soil for its optimal growth. A soil with good water retaining capacity should be selected. Do not plant on very light, sandy soils. Soils that are poorly drained or known to have hardpans should not be planted to okra. Okra grows best on soils that have a pH of 5.8 to 6.5. A soil test will show if lime is required and will specify the amount of fertilizer to apply. If lime is recommended, use dolomitic lime. Apply it 3 or 4 months before the crop is seeded. According to research, it has been shown that okra responds to additional phosphate when soil test indicates medium to low phosphate. If your soil test indicates low phosphate, broadcast 400 pounds per acre of 20 percent superphosphate and disk it in. If the soil test indicates medium phosphate, apply 200 pounds per acre of 20 percent superphosphate and disk it in. If a soil test is not available, general recommendations are to apply 600 to 800 pounds per acre of a complete fertilizer such as 6-12-12 or 5-10-15. This can be mixed under the row or applied in a band to the side.

The use of additional nitrogen should be avoided on vigorous plantings until fruiting begins to check plant growth as okra plant has a sensitive balance between vegetative (foliage production) and reproduction (pod production). Two or more side dressings with a high analysis nitrogen material may be needed, however, depending on rainfall. It is important to supply additional nitrogen late in the season at the time the “forms” or “blooms” are concentrated in the top of the plant. Put down 33 pounds of additional nitrogen per acre at each application. http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C627

Variety

New okra varieties are not introduced as often as are those of some vegetables. However, plant breeders and commercial companies continue to improve existing varieties and some hybrids have been released. Since some processors prefer a particular variety, you’re urged to discuss this with the processor before buying seed. Some processors have a source of seed available for their growers. Buyers for the fresh market generally prefer star shaped pods; soup manufacturers prefer a round pod of the Emerald type; the frozen food industry has accepted both types in the past. http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C627

Recommended variety

• ‘Annie Oakley’ – Nice Yield. Hybrid. 3-4′
• ‘Burgundy’ – Burgundy pods (Lose some color with cooking). Heirloom. 4′
• ‘Clemson Spineless’ – Good flavor. Heirloom. 4-5′
• ‘Emerald’ – Long pods (7-9″). Spineles. Heirloom. 4′
• ‘White Velvet’ – Tender, white pods. Heirloom. 5′

Note: Okra varieties that are labelled spineless, are less irritating, but not completely spine-free. https://www.thespruce.com/growing-okra-in-the-backyard-vegetable-garden-1403473

Planting

Seed the okra after the soil has warmed enough for good seed establishment. Row spacing should be 28 to 38 inches apart. These spacing will require 12 to 15 pounds of seed per acre. Plant 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep, 4 to 6 seed per foot. Thin to 8 to 12 inches between plants. Corn planters, such as the Cole planter, can be used for okra if the seed plate and cog are changed to plant this size seed. http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C627

Also,

• You can start okra seeds indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date.
• You can also start okra directly in your garden 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date as long as you cover the plants with a cold frameor grow tunnel until the weather warms up. Make sure that the covering is 2 to 3 feet tall so that the plants have room to grow.
• If you do not start your okra plants early, wait until there is stable warm weather. You can plant okra in the garden when the soil has warmed to 65° to 70°F.
• Plant okra in fertile, well-drained soil in full light about ½ to 1-inch-deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination.
• If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them ample room to grow.
• Okra plants are tall, so be sure to space out the rows 3 to 4 feet apart.

Care

• Weeds should be eliminated when the plants are young
• Mulch heavily to prevent more weeds from growing.
• Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 8 inches high. You should also side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (½ pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Learn more about soil amendmentsand preparing soil for planting.
• When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 10 to 18 inches apart.
• Keep the plants well-watered throughout the summer months; 1 inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
• After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production. https://www.almanac.com/plant/okra

Weed and Pest Management

Weeds can be controlled by cultivation or by use of herbicides. Early weeds can be controlled by replant herbicide applications. Later in the season, shallow cultivations can be used to control weeds.

At times it will be necessary to control insects that attack okra. Check your crop on a regular schedule, especially early in the season. This is the time that aphids usually appear. Later on, the plants and pods may be attacked by green stink bugs, cabbage loppers, corn earworms, European corn borers, and the leaf-footed plant bug.

Nematodes can cause serious losses in okra. Root-knot nematodes can be controlled by the use of approved nematocides. Nematocides are very essential if soil is infested with nematodes.

The incidence of Fusarium wilt is much greater when root-knot nematodes are present. Nematode control is a major practice in reducing Fusarium wilt presence.

Harvesting

Okra plants are scratchy and irritating and therefore not pleasant to touch, whether the spines are pronounced or hair-like. Gloves and long sleeves help. It’s also easier to harvest with a pruner, rather than pulling and getting the spines in your fingers. Okra is best when picked young. The fruits are their most tender when they’re 2-4 inches long and as wide as a pinkie finger. Okra can grow in the blink of an eye and usually reaches this size within 6 days of flowering. As okra pods get larger, they become stringy and tough. However, if growing conditions are good, even larger okra can still be tender and edible. Test for tenderness by snapping off the end of a pod. If it snaps, it hasn’t become touch and fibrous yet and should still be good for eating. If not, it makes a nice addition to a flower arrangement. As with most vegetables, okra is at its peak when freshly picked. Pods can be stored in the refrigerator for about 1 week or frozen, canned or pickled. https://www.thespruce.com/growing-okra-in-the-backyard-vegetable-garden-1403473

Harvesting for processing

Most varieties grown for processing produce pods on a brittle stem. These pods can be broken or snapped in a manner that leaves the stem on the plant and not on the pod. Okra grown for processing should be allowed to get as long as possible without becoming fibrous or hard. As long as the pod tip will snap off evenly the pod is usually still tender.

Processing

Pods 2″ to 4″ left to mature 1 to 2 days longer will yield about 2 1/3 times more weight. If left to mature 3 to 4 days longer, they will yield about 3 ½ times more weight.

Usually three harvests a week are required with process type of okra. Train your picking crews to grade okra as it is being harvested, discarding tough and damaged pods. Do not gather pods under 4 inches long. If left to reach maximum length, these pods will return a much greater weight per acre.

Harvesting for fresh market

Greater care is necessary in harvesting okra for the fresh market. Grading standards are more exact and the pods must usually be cut with a knife. Fresh market okra is usually graded into these sizes: Fancy — Pods up to 3 1/2 inches long; Choice — Pods 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 inches long; Jumbo — Pods over 4 1/2 inches but still tender.

Be sure your picking crews are careful to neatly trim the stem end; this can be done as the pod is cut from the plant. To keeps pods small enough to grade as Fancy or Choice it will be necessary to harvest every day during periods of rapid growth. http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C627

Storage

Short term storage of Okra

Spread the dry okra pods out flat, without washing, and place in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator. The okra will only hold 4 to 5 days in the refrigerator.

Long term storage of Okra

Freeze only young, tender okra. Wash and trim off stems, leaving caps whole. Blanch in boiling water for 4 minutes. Cool in ice water for 4 minutes. Drain and loosely pack the okra in freezer bags. The okra will keep for 6 to 8 months. http://www.vegetablegardenplanner.com/how-to-store/okra